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Samuel Ross: Nike x A–COLD–WALL* Capsule Collection

How does an object change with use or over time? This question is the driving force behind Samuel Ross’s work on the Nike x A–COLD–WALL* Capsule Collection, starring a radical reworking of the 2010 Nike Zoom Vomero +5. “I am interested in how a garment ages and in taking the user on that journey. That is something I believe should be encouraged. It’s much more human. It’s much more dynamic as well,” says the London-born designer.

The Nike x A–COLD–WALL* Capsule Collection reflects this philosophy in inventive fabrics, including a technical Japanese nylon that softens with warmth and heat, and the removal of PU coatings from the Nike Zoom Vomero +5 to accelerate the aging process (manifested by a yellowing).

In this, the collection neatly follows Ross’s first Nike project, a Nike AF1 High, which was designed to highlight the shoe’s individual components through subtle shifts in color from gray to white, reversed leathers and a disguised Swoosh (just its stitch was left). However, the employment of dynamic materials allows Ross’s theory to mature as well. His ideas balance an active and static state — each piece in the collection is attractive as sculpture, but most enchanting when lived in.

The Nike x A–COLD–WALL* Capsule Collection launches November 17 exclusively in London. A global release follows November 29.

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