Henrik Vibskov presented his Spring/Summer 19 show during Parisian Menswear fashion week. Entitled “Wind” This meteorological and metaphorical phenomenon inspired the SS 2019 collection. How we as mankind are depending on and using the wind as a tool for transport, energy, and play. Wind can be our helpful friend but has a factor of quickly turning to be our enemy and create unexpected situations. We catch up with the Danish fashion designer straight after his new season debut.
Read the Full interview below.
Congratulations, that was an amazing show. Where did you get the inspiration for the set design?
We were looking into old movies and film noir. Old Hiscock movies and sometimes sci-fi movies as well, you have wind beams or propellers. You work with that propel that gives the shadow and the machine vs man. That’s how it started, and we had wind as a subject so we thought maybe we could create some kind of wheel that could spin.
Are all of your upcoming installations going to be based on the theme of energy?
Next week we are doing an exhibition installation in Shanghai, and that is more about gravity – which could be related to energy – it’s going to be an orchestra. It was actually created for the V&A in London, and now its ended up in Shanghai.
You have a background as a musician. Does that have a lot of impact on your collections?
I think yes, quite a lot. It’s a lot about appearing and identity, I used to play in a lot of pretty dark niches of noise and drones. When I was 18, it was really dark. Then slowly over the years, I lightened it up.
Is there a reason for that?
No. I think I was just attracted towards how we communicate in small circles. You get into these circles – we were all dressed very black and dark, and listening to some really dark stuff. I come from the countryside and there was not much happening. My brother and sister were older than me so I was just alone at home because they moved away. So I was just out in some hillbilly woods area with a lot of lakes. It was slightly rainy and dark.
Are you still making music?
I am due to play 6 concerts over the summer, so that is my summer holiday! I’m playing at jazz festivals. I’m just a drummer, so I’m connected with rhythm. There is another drummer who is part of an orchestra in New York and they asked if I would like to join them. When I land in Shanghai, I go directly to rehearsal and the day after there is a concert. It’s not really jazz, it’s more electronic.
If you don’t mind me going back to the show, are you looking into sustainability? Are there any new technologies you are going to introduce in the fabrication of your collections?
We are working with our own secret program, we are calling it 20/20. A lot of the stuff is either recycled or based on recycled materials. All of the jersey and sweats are made in organic cotton. We try to reuse different things, like all of the installations. The sheets we used today were for an old laundry place; they were about to throw them out and we asked if we could get 100! We tea coloured them. We try as best as we can – 80 or 90 percent of the stuff we use is produced in Europe, which makes transport and trafficking slightly easier. We’ve been doing all kind of green projects, there’s a consumer-ish thing that should be stopped. We should stop buying – that would probably be the best thing. I don’t know if we can do that as mankind because we want to somehow adjust ourselves to what other people are doing.
I think that is definitely our responsibility as humans to make these realisations.
Exactly. Some of our coats are made from plastic bottles and recycled polyester, and I think in the last one or two years it changed really fast because suppliers are also very much aware. There are a lot of things happening currently. It’s also becoming much easier for me – We had a visit from one of our suppliers at the showroom yesterday and I was like ‘Shouldn’t this fabric be more sustainable?’ and he said ‘It already is; didn’t you know?’ and I didn’t!
How do you look to the future?
That’s a good question. I think we like to be slightly individual. We’ve seen that from identity, we try to look more different than others. I think that will still go on. I think its really difficult for humans to be completely the same. Even if you look from outside we are all wearing shirts – maybe one is white and one is Hawaiian, but from a bigger zoom, we are all just small ants. We think we are all so super special, listening to the best music but really we are not. But whats going to happen? I think that at some point nature is going to take over a bit. Which is maybe good – we haven’t been treating it that well.
What makes you think that?
Just the rare action from nature – I think it will just get wilder and wilder. If you look into what we do, we spoil a lot of things for ourselves. How we eat for instance; should we eat meat? We can’t feed everybody. If everybody had to eat the same amount of meat, there wouldn’t be enough for the population of the earth. Organic food is a super luxury – one of my friends is a scientist and looks at pesticides, he also eats all kinds of good food, but he says ‘If the earth was just treated naturally, we couldn’t actually all be here at this party. So someone has to go because we can’t create as much food as the number of people.
Images shot by Alex Stein exclusively for FGUK Magazine. Words thanks to Lucy Tulley
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